Checking Bhutan off the bucket list.
Day 1. October, 2024
Landing at one of the top ten most dangerous airports in the world had me curious. Would the butterflies be multiplied? I was already ecstatic that I was visiting Bhutan with my father. This place has been #1 on his bucket list my entire life and we finally made it happen for his 70th birthday.
I learned 2 things in flight. 1- If you’re flying from New Delhi pick your seat on the left side of the aircraft so you have the chance to see Mt Everest during the flight. 2- if you’re not lucky to get the left side, you will be able to see Tigers Nest on your final decent before landing in Paro.
Paro International airport is the most beautiful airport I’ve ever seen and also the absolute quietest. My father and I were met immediately once we stepped foot into the immigration hall. Dharma Adventures (the tour company I had used to help plan our trip) has a greeter- We were then escorted past the people who had been sitting in first class to a separate line for our immigration processing. Immediate 5 star treatment to start the trip.
After exiting the airport we were then introduced to our driver Amber and our guide for the next week, Karma. He greeted us like in Hawaii, and placed a khata around our necks, which is a scarf that conveys well wishes and respect. Already felt like home. Although we landed in Paro, our trip was truly starting in Thimpu.
The drive to Thimphu was about an hour and beautiful. I was told this is the “straightest” road in Bhutan, and it was extremely winding. We made it to the capital of this tiny country of 800,000 people where there is not one stop light. (The only capital in the world without any stop lights.) Checked into our 3 star hotel (HUGE upgrade from what India likes to claim as 3 stars…)
I was told it was extremely safe to walk around, so I decided to see the “city” by foot. I had to pass the “busiest” intersection in all of Bhutan and theres a single traffic man who stands in a hut directing cars. People here only cross the street at designated cross walks, zero jay walking. I wonder what the ticket cost is.
Went to sleep satisfied and excited.
Day 2
Breakfast and then a 9am pickup.
We drove to the Golden Sitting Buddha, Dodroenma. It was much busier than normal because a politician was expected today to give a speech. There was an excitement in the cool air and it was uplifting to witness the community show up. We made a full lap around the base of the Buddha, which is the largest “sitting” buddha in the world.
From the Golden Sitting Buddha we hiked across the mountain back towards the main part of Thimphu to Changangkha. There had been rain in the previous days so a few parts of the trail were either missing or blocked by mudslides.
We then went to the school of arts and crafts in Thimphu, where students learn a specific chosen craft, from painting, sewing, to sculpture. Everything here is about symmetry, which first felt forced, not allowing art students to express individuality, but with each new classroom I entered I started to see more and more of the beauty in the history and perfection of it all. Across the street from the school, is a beautiful gallery. We were lucky enough to be taken on a private tour where we were shown the master artists painting upstairs. The painting they were working on was over 20ft long and 10ft high, planned to be placed in a temple. It was magnificent. The layers here are deep and mildly different, yet all cohesive. Different artists specialize in different parts of a painting. So many artist will end up working on one piece. There’s the person that originally sketches, then another artist does the first layer of painting, then another painter will specialize in the detailed areas of just the faces. I find the ritual and respect that goes into each piece magnetizing.
We made our way to the oldest Dzong, Simthokha. Which was the first one we were seeing of our trip. I was impressed with how colorful the decorations were inside. Of course photos are not permitted, which always brings a charm. But it fascinates me that from the outside its the simple white with wood accents, and when you step inside, theres full ribbons in rainbow cascading from the ceiling and vibrant paintings cover the walls.
Our last stop was the Chorten Stupa. Welcoming visitors with large prayer wheels and butter candles.
I learned it was the hub for senior citizens in the city and many were dropped off daily here to socialize. Walking continuous laps around the stupa (clockwise). I was taught that you are meant to do circles of 3. That 3 is a great number in Buddhism and when walking around a stupa you’re also meant to set an intention or “wish”. My interpretation was making a constant affirmation of what I want to attract in my life. As I proceeded to make my laps I felt at ease, I felt empowered, and I had a sense of being. It felt special and familiar, and although I had only been in Bhutan for 24hrs I am already falling in love with this country.
