Punakha, Bhutan
Day 3
We checked out of the hotel at 8:30 to venture from Thimphu to Punakha.
To make this journey you go over the Dochula Pass, a 10,000ft pass where - on a clear day - you see the Himalayan mountain range. At the top of the pass is 108 Stupas for a past queen and fallen soldiers from a war in 2003. There’s a cafe with floor to ceiling windows that overlook the range. Today, we were in the clouds and I couldn’t help but find the beauty in it. As Alaska has taught me, if the place gives you everything you want to see your first time - you have no reason to come back. So I’m taking it as a blessing. The 108 Stupas hold beauty in themselves and while the clouded mist gently swept through I couldn’t imagine it would have given such charm on a clear day.
We continued down, our vehicle’s decent was long and winding. (Beware if you are easily car sick.)
Just before we reached Punakha Valley we stopped in the small village of Teoprongchu. We walked down through a small paved path to the fertilely temple, Chimi Lhakhang. The walk was easy and down hill, past many small homes that appeared as shops that had paintings for sale; as well as people painting. It felt cozy and authentic even though there were many “shops”, there was not one person trying to solicit your attention. Very much the attitude of- if you like, please look - with no words exchanged. I wish I had asked how much some of the painting were, they were beautiful.
When we reached the temple, just wow. It wasn’t astounding from the outside, quite modest, with over 30 prayer wheels placed across the three front sides of the building. Had a Buddha tree grazing its shadow, or possibly vice versa. It was modest to the eye, but overwhelming to the soul. As I entered the courtyard I focused in on my friends that have been having trouble conceiving. Meditating on manifesting them good luck.
As I circled the small circumference of the temple, admiring the artwork and listening to its history I would take turns; wishing for luck to my friends getting pregnant and then to myself, open to receiving what the universe has in store for me.
Here is where I started feeling the true power of Bhutan, or maybe it was the first time I’m finally being completely open to receiving it. Just breathing, no ego. Inside the temple there are many things of value, including 3 dice. There are lucky or “great” numbers that bring good fortune to those who roll them. Usually given 3 rolls.
I was asked by Karma (our guide) if I wanted to make a wish and roll the dice. That the wish didn’t have to be child related. I had one thing in the front of my mind. Its been the same wish I have taken to every prayer wheel since I got to this part of the world. As I was handed the dice from the temples monk I asked what numbers I should be trying to roll. No answer. I asked Karma, he too did not answer and simply said, “Different numbers have different meanings.” I’ve never rolled dice without an intentional number behind my action. Here I was rolling dice for my wish, not knowing what number I was supposed to be hoping for. So I surrendered. I closed my eyes and held my wish at the front of my mind. Visualizing only that. I took one deep breathe in and out and shook my hands. I opened my eyes and let go. I felt like I let go of a lot…of weight that was unconsciously holding me down. I rolled 1-1-1. The monks eyes widened and he stepped back from the table with a gentle nod. Karma looked shocked and exchanged brief words with the monk. He said that number is extremely lucky and very rare. That the monk never sees it rolled. That any number above that can be added up by different combinations of dice and the fact I got all 1’s was amazing. That I have had very good fortune in my life and that my wish has great strength.
It felt great to have that happen. The interesting thing is I truly felt that I manifested it. I didn’t know what number I wanted or needed, but I knew to my core that my wish needs to come true. So I willed it. I’m not naive to know that sometimes one seeks validation in any sign they can, but I do know how it felt to be in there. To be focused, and for that brief moment to wish so deeply for something, but to also completely let it go to fate.
It was a beautiful experience and my favorite of Bhutan so far.
We made our way to our hotel, that is situated at the top of the hill directly across from the Punakha Dzong. It’s beautiful here. Had lunch, the best so far, they even specially made us tofu.
We headed to visit the Punakha Dzong at 3pm. I think this was a great time to go because there wasn’t that many people. It closes at 5, so most of the visitors were on their way out when we arrived.
This is the most beautiful Dzong in Bhutan. In the entry way they have the circle of the Chinese zodiac signs. The animals are always shown in the same rotation. Another interesting thing I learned today was that my sign- the snake- sits exactly between the dragon and horse, my mothers and fathers sign. I do not think this is coincidence. I think it was another sign of why cosmically my life has been so wonderful.
There stands a giant Buddha tree in the middle of the main courtyard, there are three parts to this Dzong. So much history was shared, and I was so in awe of my surroundings I didn’t capture all the words, the importance. However I can boldly state that the inside of this Dzong was the most magnificent type of temple or church, that I have ever seen. The greatness and detail along each corner, was astounding. Again, no photos are allowed, so I’ll do my best short description. The walls that cascade up 25ft depict the life of Buddha. Painted in great and vibrant detail. There are statues of the many forms Avalokiteshvara can take. Stacked one, after the other, each truly unique from different shawls to facial structure. Each column is painted with flowers and when you look up from the center of the room you see the jigsaw puzzle of it all perfectly placed together, making you understand how not one metal nail was used to create this structure. Every place your eyes graze is met with another beautiful painting or carving. I had to sit, overcome by the feeling of it all. By the way it captivated my eyes, heart and then soul. I do not write these words lightly, but I felt genuinely moved, awakened, yet fully at peace. There was a reminded energy, I had felt it when I visited Jerusalem that gave me more of an understanding of why so many wars are fought over religion, of why specific locations are so sacred. The energy here feels pure and up lifting. It truly speaks to you, it welcomes the individual…all individuals. It came with no judgement and wraps its enlighten arms around me. I shamefully knew very little regarding Buddhism before I came here, and now I might be ready to convert. This place is moving, in ways unscripted. I am drinking all the Buddhist kool-aid.
Day 4
I pulled open the curtains from a glorious sleep.
Painted clouds stretched across the rice fields as far as the valley would allow me to see. The Punakha Dzong still illuminated a soft yellow glow. It had raining all night and seemed that the sun was trying to rise and burn off the cover.
The morning started off with a hike to the Crown Prince Stupa.
Because of the rain it made the trail a lot more…entertaining. (Replacing the word challenging for personal comedic relief.) Mud replaced the dirt and a stream replaced most of the rocks. It wasn’t hard rain, but it was more than mist. This interesting mystical in-between, that maybe could only be found in Bhutan. I’m here for it. The hike up is supposed to take 45min to an hour, it took us only 30. The Stupa was gorgeous! (Again, no photos allowed inside.) 3 floors, there was a monk chanting the morning prayer on the second floor, on this same floor there were again 3 dice in a brass bowl, showing 5-5-5. A contestant reminder that I’m exactly where I’m supposed to be. (555 is my lucky number that shows up for me everywhere; so much so I actually have it tattooed.) The signs I’ve received here are crazy.
We walked to the third floor, and then to the roof where the slide latched door had been shut. Karma opened it because it had briefly stopped raining. He invited us up for the ultimate view of the valley. The vantage point was beautiful and my favorite view I had seen so far in the country. I placed a small bill in the donation box in front of the smiling Buddha. We all stayed on that roof for some time. Just admiring. Again, no photos.. I was the first to come down, where I then took a seat on the wood floor and closed my eyes. Lessing my distraction and focusing on all the good energy this place transmitted. Repeating the sole affirmation I have been carrying with me throughout each temple, dzong, prayer wheel, and stupa. Soaking in the power of it all.
The hike down from the Crown Prince Stupa is really where balance and shoe thread were put to the test. To my actual surprise, no one slipped.
Next we went to the Six Senses Punakha. While being in Bhutan I felt it foolish not to visit some of the luxury hotels, even if I wasn’t staying at them.
When you walk into the lobby of this Six Senses your eyes widen and your heart flutters. Greeted with the best ginger tea I’ve ever consumed, my father and I were given a tour of the property. Truly impressed with the sense of place this hotel captures. Located up the hill, you have a vantage point of an unobstructed view. The property was warm and relaxed.
Our next stop was to visit &Beyond Punakha. &Beyond has been my favorite hotel supplier in the world for some time. The way they have mastered true adventure with luxury in such off the beaten path locations has been more than impressive, but inspiring. When we stepped foot on their property located next to the Punakha river I was immediately overcome with a sense of peace and curiosity. Two characteristics the brand holds close to its heart. The lobby is warm and naturally hugs you. All the small collected details makes you feel like you’re in a royal Bhutanese grandmothers home. Filled with artifacts and a sense of safari. The property as a whole is intimate with only 9 individual rooms scattered between the lush landscape; each within earshot of the rustling river.
The spa consists of 2 treatment rooms. One of the rooms being the most gorgeous treatment room I’ve ever seen with a intricately carved wooden bathtub for hot stone baths- a Bhutan specialty. We then sat down lunch. Wow. The chef had intricately prepared 5 drastically different vegetarian dishes for my fathers dietary needs. The meal was fantastic and one of the most creative vegetarian meals my father and I have ever had. (Pops said he has officially reached enlightenment.)
After our *life altering* lunch it was time for some movement. River rafting down Mo Chu (Female river) was next on the days itinerary. A classic fun time. With all the rain the river was actually much higher and had a lot more rapids than normal, which made the trip exciting. The river guides were fun and informative. Karma came with us. Felt like a good bonding experience.
Day 5
We headed up the valley to see the Rinchenling monastery.
The road was winding and the clouds were low. The drive is “supposed” to be beautiful, but the rain seemed to be playing a card against us. I cant remember how long it took to reach the monastery but I would assume about 1.5hrs.
Not until we were there did we discover the monks were out on a delayed “summer break”. This was out of season, but one of the regions great monk masters had passed this year so the students didn’t get a break when they normally should have. The blessing to be found in this mistake was that we had the entire place to ourselves.
One of the monks that stayed behind to watch over the monetary came and opened the temple for us. The paintings on the walls were beautiful. I really wish I could take photos inside one of these places… For now the pure imagination has to do. The story of Buddhas life depicted again across the walls. The monk passed us something similar to a tea pot that was filled with their type of holy water. He sprinkled some of the pure water into my hands and I wiped it up against my forehead, as instructed. Everything is around well wishes and health here.
After we wrapped the temple we headed back down the valley. The soft rain had finally cleared and the sun was trying to come out and dance. We stopped for tea at a cute little spot that overlooked a nice pocket of green. We continued down the very winding road until we found a nice bend to set up a picnic.
With some time to kill we went back to the village of Teoprongchu; where the fertility temple was. I remembered lots of cute small art shops and I really wanted to get a painting. Plus with the weather being a bit temperamental I knew at least it was something to do. We took our time in each family ran shop, where live painting was happening in real time. Admiring the fine details of the history and beliefs stroked into every piece. After visiting every shop we ended up back at the first one, where 2 pieces had captured our attention. My first big purchase of the trip. Bought my father a painting as well as a thank you for helping make this trip happen and a gift for his 70th birthday.
Once we were back at the hotel we just relaxed, I went to the rooftop and wrote (Here I am, admiring the Punakha Dzong in the distance). Earlier in the day I had kind of felt like staying 3 days in Punakha may not have been necessary, but after being able to completely relax and not have an agenda today, it felt really nice. A day to fully breathe. I keep being overwhelmed with a sense of ease here. A peaceful and kind energy that radiates.
